The Bunny The Bear - In Like Flynn
I get a lot of questions from readers asking about survival knives.
TOP PICK: Ka-Bar BK-22 In a hurry?
We love all the knives recommended here but read more you asked us to recommend one survival knife we usually lean towards the Ka-Bar BK-22.
A well-priced all-round knife and deserving of our top pick.
I discuss the general rules of buying a good survival knife below and then share my own list of the top survival knives currently on the market.
Rule 1: Fixed blade, not folding My passion in life is folding knives but I stand by this statement when it comes to survival knives.
A good folding knife is perfect for everyday carry, but in a survival situation you want a fixed blade.
Part of the reason for this is that the joint or pivot of a folding knife is a weakness when it comes to the rough abuse your survival knife will endure.
In a survival knife, you want something that will be readily available for chopping, thrusting, prying, pounding, and rigorous cutting.
Yes, I know that there are folding knives advertised as survival knives and many of the best folding knives are damn solid, so why do I insist on a fixed blade?
Another reason is speed of deployment.
With a folding blade, you have to open the knife and ensure it is properly locked before you can use it.
In an emergency situation, you want a knife that is ready to go the minute you pull it out of its sheath.
When speed and safety are essential, a fixed blade knife is much better than a folder.
A partial tang is simply too flimsy in situations where you need to force the blade against a hard object, or use the knife as a prying tool.
The full tang knife is going to be much more effective for prying or digging.
Of course, this all comes at price in the weight of the knife but 9 times out of 10 I would stick with the full a bear and a bunny had plenty of money />With a full tang knife, even if the handle becomes damaged or falls off, you can wrap the tang in parachute cord or rope and still have a fully usable tool.
Not so with partial tang knives.
This knife may read article day be the difference between life and death so give it some respect.
You need to shop around and find a blade that uses a quality steel alloy.
ForI usually recommend to stick with stainless steel.
This is because EDC knives are used far more frequently than my survival knife, so a low maintenance stainless steel is preferred.
Since my a bear and a bunny had plenty of money knives are used less frequently, but also subject to more heavy duty usage, I generally recommend a knife made with carbon steel over stainless.
Carbon steel is tougher than your average stainless steel and will hold up to the abuse more.
The most popular carbon steel often used in survival knives is called 1095, or slight variants thereof.
If you have more to spend consider a higher end steel like S30V which will hold its edge for longer.
Rule 4: Blade length 4 — 7 inches Size matters, as my wife always tells me, but bigger is not always better in the survival game.
For example, just as a blade that is too thick can make it difficult to dress small game or carve precision snares, so can a blade that is too long.
Anything bigger than 10 or 11 inches runs towards being too long to really be useful in as many situations as possible.
The knife becomes too big to handle and carry effectively, and can easily present itself as a hindrance to your survival instead of a tool to ensure it.
I recommend keeping the blade between 4 and 7 inches, with an overall length of around 10 to 11 inches.
Anything longer is basically a.
Rule 5: Blade thickness 0.
This is not always a good idea, for a number of reasons.
Look for a thickness between 0.
Stay away from hollow, cheap plastic or metal handles in your survival knife.
It might sound cool to be able to carry matches or fishing line and hooks inside your knife handle, but that a bear and a bunny had plenty of money of density seriously compromises the strength of the knife.
If your survival knife is hard to hold or lacks strength and durability, it can quickly become a liability with the cost of you injuring yourself.
Metal handles conduct heat and can make for an ice cold grip in the winter wilderness.
These materials are near indestructible and provide durability, and grip read more in our.
Look for texturing and scales too, giving you plenty of comfortable grip.
I also like to have a blunt end for hammering, and hopefully even a lanyard hole for keeping the knife readily accessible from around your wrist.
Considering one of those Commando knives with a built in compass and you can store stuff inside the handle?
All of these knives are, of course, fixed blade and full-tang knives, so they meet the two most important criteria I look for in a survival knife.
KA-BAR BECKER BK22 CAMPANION Country of Origin USA Perhaps my all-around favorite survival knife, the KA-BAR Becker BK22 Campanion has all of the features of an amazing tool for keeping me alive in the outdoors.
Designed by Ethan Becker, who founded the Becker Knife and Tool Corporation in the early 1980s, the Becker BK22 Read more is a superb survival knife from the reputable sold with a heavy-duty polyester sheath.
The Becker BK22 Campanion is made in the USA from 1095 Cro-Van carbon steel which is basically standard 1095 steel with added Chromium and Vanadium for improved wear and corrosion resistance.
The blade is 5.
The BK22 is certainly on the heftier side with its 0.
The blade holds an edge quite nicely, and it sharpens easily.
The handle is constructed from Zytel, a Dupont-made glass-reinforced nylon which is damn-near indestructible.
A lanyard hole in the handle makes it easy to attach a rope to this knife for added security in use.
Where the KA-BAR Becker BK22 Campanion really shines is in processing wood.
The blade is thick enough that you can baton or pry with confidence, and the flat metal edge at the bottom of the tang is perfect for those times when you might need to drive the knife point-first into a branch or log.
The final stroke of genius in this knife is that even after a full day of chopping wood, carving out containers for boiling water, and batoning logs for firewood, the blade was still sharp enough for use in the camp kitchen.
Speaking of the camp kitchen, this knife is brilliant for slicing and dicing onions and potatoes.
It just tends to tear through softer meat and other food items, instead of slicing them.
In closing, I can say that the KA-BAR Becker BK22 Campanion is an outstanding utility knife for survival.
The knife itself is available in a variety of appearances, such as a venom green blade with orange handles or the standard black powdered blade with a gray handle.
ESEE has built the 6P to be a beast of a knife at 11.
The cutting edge is 5.
The a bear and a bunny had plenty of money weight of the 6P is a mere 12 ounces, so the knife feels great in your hand but is still heavy enough to really take some use and abuse.
The drop point blade is flat-ground, easy click here sharpen, and the black powder finish holds quite well.
The blade comes razor sharp straight out of the box, and holds its edge remarkably well.
The handle of the ESEE 6P is made from gray linena resin handle that is very durable and strong.
The rounded pommel includes a lanyard hole, which is almost a must-have in any survival knife.
Micarta is an amazing material, since it tends to get even easier to grip when wet, rather than the opposite.
Even for kitchen tasks like slicing and chopping meat, fruits, or vegetables, the ESEE 6P is a great tool.
I prefer nylon sheaths that I can attach easily to my belt, but ESEE has chosen instead to include a molded sheath with a clip plate.
The sheath is MOLLE-compatible, but it can be a little too complicated for some.
Give me a simple nylon or even leather sheath, please.
Why do I like the ESEE 6P vs the 5P?
Simply because the 6P is much lighter than the 5P 11.
The 5P being so heavy is far less useful in regular use.
The ESEE 6P is very well balanced.
This medium-sized survival knife measures 11 inches overall, with a 6.
The blade is partially flat ground terminating in a convex ground edge, 0.
The cutting performance of this knife is absolutely fantastic, making quick work of just about any material you might need to slice or chop through.
With that said, the knife is not really designed or balanced for chopping use, but it works adequately for that and perfectly for batoning wood.
The A1 uses a laminate featuring 420J outer cladding with a VG-10 core.
The VG-10 core is hardened to 59 HRC, and the geometry of the knife makes this normally brittle steel hold up beautifully under even the heaviest of uses.
Still, it sharpens easily and did not show any signs of nicking or chipping when I used it to baton wood.
Fallkniven has constructed the handle on the A1 of Kraton, a semi-rubbery high density polymer that holds up well to use and abuse.
The scaling and texturing on the knife is wonderful, but I wish the finger notches were just a bit more pronounced and some way of choking up on the blade was provided.
The lanyard hole near the pommel rounds out this simple, but effective handle.
Nice to see you get a choice of sheaths with the A1.
You can choose a standard leather sheath, a lefty sheath, or a Zytel sheath.
I opted for the leather sheath, which worked very well and held the knife beautifully.
Despite its source shortcomings, the Fallkniven A1 is one of my favorites, because it is easily sharpened using just a gentle stropping and it meets almost all of the needs you might have in a survival situation.
It also works beautifully for carving, slicing, or skinning game.
Designed by Tom Brown, Jr.
The blade is a clip point design, flat ground, and the back edge of the blade is serrated for extra-tough chopping needs.
The Tracker T—3 is 10.
The cutting edge is 5.
Now this knife is a bit on the heavy side, but still under a pound at 13.
The blade is made from ATS—34 stainless steel, an imported Hibachi chrome-molybdenum alloy with a very small grain size and fantastic edge retention.
Consider it a Japanese version of the popular and excellent US steelfavored by top names like.
The handle provides excellent finger grips, and has the perfect texture and scaling to ensure you can always keep a solid hold on the knife, even in the worst weather conditions.
The design of the blade on the Tom Brown Tracker T—3 is fairly unique, featuring both a carving or slicing edge along with a chopping surface.
The chopping portion of the blade is solid and heavy enough to split large pieces of timber for firewood, and it can even chop down small trees or cut off limbs.
Smaller bushcraft tasks, like carving precision snare sets or putting a point on a spear or ground stake, are still easy to accomplish using the flatter section of the blade.
Unfortunately, trying to use this knife as a skinning knife is an exercise in futility, because the blade was simply not manufactured with this use in mind.
This is something you need to keep in mind and is the main drawback of this otherwise perfect survival knife.
Also, the shape of the blade just makes sharpening more tedious, since you have to work around the edges and curves while you are putting the edge back on the blade.
It can be done, sure, but be prepared for this chore.
Finally, TOPS has chosen a molded Kydex sheath, which is very loose-fitting and a bit noisy when you remove the knife.
GERBER LMF II Country of Origin USA Former military man and now a bear and a bunny had plenty of money designer Jeff Freeman led the charge with team to design the LMF II.
The knife was inspired by such scenarios as being caught down behind enemy lines or otherwise left to fend for yourself, so survival was definitely at the forefront of the design process for this knife.
This one is the smallest and lightest of source top picks, running at an overall length of 10.
The blade is both relatively short at 4.
Gerber has made that easy, by including a built-in sharpener in the sheath of the knife.
You also get a safety knife, and the sheath features two leg straps and full MOLLE compatibility.
It also works beautifully strapped to your belt, which is how I normally carry my survival knife.
The tang and butt cap of the LMF II have complete separation, so the knife can absorb the visit web page from hammering and also prevent electrical shock.
Talk about a feature packed knife.
My biggest complaint about the LMF II is the butt cap covering the pommel.
Instead, I look for a flat surface that I can hammer against when I need to drive the blade point-first into an object.
It holds an edge reasonably well, sharpens easily, and is just large enough to be quite useful for survival, bushcraft, or regular camping and hiking usage.
Other notable contenders that I trust I have used so many survival knives over the years that it was a challenge to single out only five that were my favorites.
It features a clip point straight edge at a hefty 0.
The blade length is six inches, and the overall length of the knife is 11.
Made from AUS—8 stainless steel, the Force holds a decent edge but also sharpens easily.
It works great for chopping, batoning, slicing, carving, and prying.
The butt end of the tang can be used for breaking glass, but it does not work well as a hammering spot because of its angled edges.
SOG packs a well-designed sheath with the Force, made of nylon a bear and a bunny had plenty of money a hook and loop closure and a MOLLE attachment.
The knife features a lanyard hole in the handle, and SOG even includes a lanyard in the box.
The Spyderco BushCraft G—10 is on the smaller side with an overall length of 8.
This type of steel is not commonly used in survival knives, but it does have good wear resistance in a low alloy, and in fact has better wear resistance than carbon steels.
The black fiberglass-based laminate G—10 handle of the BushCraft is contoured and incorporates a backup lanyard hole.
The pattern in the G—10 looks like wood grain, giving the knife a distinctive and beautiful look.
Still, the BushCraft is effective for all possible uses of a survival knife.
KA-BAR USMC KNIFE This is the design that inspired all survival knives, and it is still doing its job 70 years after it first debuted.
The knife weighs in at 11.
The handle comes in kraton or leather, with a powdered metal butt cap.
The clip point of the 1095 Cro-Van carbon steel blade is just thick enough to be useful for prying and penetrating, but not so thick that it hinders your ability to slice and dice.
The KA-BAR USMC Utility Knife a bear and a bunny had plenty of money great in the field, there are just better choices as far as designs go.
The knife was designed by Gerber and TV action-manand is packed with innovative features that few other survival knives have.
The knife is made with 9Cr19MoV high carbon stainless steel in a drop point design with half of the 4.
Overall length of this knife is 10 inches, and the tool weighs 11.
The handle is ergonomic textured rubber, maximizing comfort and helping you keep a firm grip on your knife.
The handle includes a lanyard hole, and Gerber packs a lanyard with mini emergency whistle along with the knife.
The sheath features a fire starter, a rod that strikes against a notch integrated in the back of the knife blade.
Poor quality, blade too thin, only partial tang, handle gets chewed up easily, sheath is flimsy… need I go on?
Basically this knife looks great for about 5 minutes and then it just begins to fail at everything possible.
Most of these knives are junk and not worth your time or money.
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A bear and a bunny
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